After a very long time in which I kept my visits to perfumery at a minimum, few days ago I really felt the need to go and try to enjoy a trip into the magical world of fragrances…and what a great decision it was. At first, I wanted to buy a discovery set online from a hose I know few things about, mainly that it had a fragrance similar to the more famous Baccarat Rouge from MFK.
The house I’m talking about is Morph, a new niche house, established in Italy in 2013. For my surprise, the fragrances are widely available here, in Romania, in Bucharest and there is an entire perfumery dedicated to them, called Luxury Perfume, in the centre of the city.
I went there with the hope I will find the discovery set, but, unfortunately, it was only available on preorder. This was not a bad thing, because I got the chance to try on both of their line of fragrances, not only the Luxury one, that has a sample set available. I have to thank the nice consultant at the shop, who was very nice and patient to me, and put each fragrance o a blotter, for me to enjoy. I have reviewed already on a video, but I really wanted to make a written piece about what fragrances I have discovered, as they are very nice.
So, Morph is an Italian niche fragrance house, establisehd in 2013, that has two line of fragrances: Luxury and Les Exclusifs, priced between 130 and 140 euro. Unfortunately, I still couldn’t find details about the nose behind those aromas.
From the Luxury line, I have tried on 6 of them, from the total of 12. I will get back on reviewing them when I’ll get my hands on the discovery set.
Vapor – which means boat or ship in Romanian, it’s a woody, quite gourmand and spicy fragrance, unisex, for cold weather and for all day wear. With lime, tangerine, black pepper, followed by peony, raspberry, berry and geranium and all settled on a layer of caramel, amber, Madagascar vanilla and sandalwood. It opens fresh, but it quickly becomes sweet and warm on the skin. A great fragrance, in the By the fireplace family, with a little bit more of spice.
Zeta – or as you may know it, Baccarta Rouge, Cloud or Tinhare, is exactly in this family, a sweet, powdery liquor. As notes, it has only three components, listed in order Chuao of Venezuela, New Zealand gray amber, Almond. Not much to say about it, except the fact that if you like those other fragrances I have mentioned, than you will like this one too.
Indomable – this one is my favourite when it comes to the name. Indomable means stubborn and this is a strong fragrance. It is more complex when it comes to the components, creating a woody sweet veil of cashmeer on the skin. It is more manly, which I love in a fragrance, a bit overwhelming and extreme, perfect for cold days and pretentious events. Top Notes are: Oud, Cashmere, Powdered Sugar. Middle Notes are: Labdanum, Patchouli, Clove and Base Notes are: White Musk, Vanilla Berries, Ambergris. It is a sweet woody fragrance, but delicate, not harsh or smokey, even a bit gourmand.
Kolonaki – it is the Greek name of a market and a neighborhood in Athens. The fragrance is manly, making me imagine the blue greek waters, a beach, a yacht and a gentleman. It has a bit of freshness and a bit of aftershave vibe. It is clean, sweet, musky, very well balanced. Top Notes listed: Muscenone, Javanol, Cashmeran. Middle Notes: Musk, Cumin, Agar Wood and Base Notes are: Amber, Patchouli, Vanilla.
Cruda – another favourite, when it comes to it’s name. In Romania, Cruda means a feelingless lady. I love the name because it creates a contradiction with the smell, even if I find it a bit cold and rough. Top Notes are Ambergris, Bouquet of white flowers, Rosa Damascena.
Middle Notes are: Vanilla, Cinnamon, Patchouli.
Base Notes are: Cedarwood, Vetiver. I love this one because I love cinnamon and the combination with ambergris, vanilla and patchouli is great. Cruda is rough and harsh and not easy to wear, and that makes me love it even more.
The Lex Exclusifs line is a bit more expensive and has eight fragrances. My favourite from this house belongs to this line, but I will talk about it last, because it is the last one I have tried. A thing I don’t like about this line is that the notes are not listed individually, but as an experience. I was able to find the notes listed on Fragrantica, but I could not verify if they are accurate.
Animal – is rough, strong, woody and spicy. Is a bit overwhelming and I find it male exclusive, although it is listed as unixes. The notes are layered as a sandwich, with Sandalwood and Iris on top, Spicy notes and Musk in the middle, Sandalwood again and Ambroxan in the base. The spicy notes are very strong and persistent.
Rose J – another favourite of mine from this house, is a woody rose fragrance, with the smell of church. It is overwhelming, strong, harsh and sweet, with a bit of smoke in it, like burning incense in an old church, in the middle of the winter. The structure is simple, with Incense on top, rose on middle, resin and agarwood as base notes.
A21 – it opens a bit fruity fresh, and quickly turns ambery-sweet. The osmanthus and black currant are responsible for the fruity fresh sensation in the beginning, cetalox and white musk make the middle transition to the prominent base of Madagascar vanilla and ambroxan. The mix is strong, as all the fragrances from this house are.
N8 – although it is presented as unisex, this one is more of a woman fragrance, being flowery, powdery sweet. It is strong, but delicate strong. It opens up with liliac and iris, like a spring flower bouquet, followed by parma violet and damasc rose and layered on white musk and vanilla. It is a lovely summer fragrance, a bouquet of flowers on a sunny day, happy, fun and colourful. This one is the most feminine from the house.
Iconic – this one is another delicate, feminine, summer aroma. I could not find the components, but I get some white flowers, maybe jasmin, and some sweets like vanilla. It is flowery fresh and sweet, not overwhelming, not nauseatingly sweet, perfect for a woman in her mid twenties or over, great for a day at work or for a walk in the park.
Umhh – from the description, it says that this fragrance has four woody notes. Despite them , it is or the strongest or the woody-est from the house. It is a moderate fragrance, when it comes to the oud aroma. It has also some fresh notes, making it a more manly fragrance. It is described as rebellious, but I don’t find it explosive or extrovert, but quite a normal man fragrance.
Miyazawa – this is the name of a musical instrument, a type of flute, the name of a Japanese writer, Kenji Miyazawa and also a Japanese surname. Unfortunately, I don’t know where from came the inspiration for the name of this particular fragrance. I assume is from the musical instrument. This one is a very nice fragrance, sweet with just a bit of exotic spice and oud. Between the notes, it has rose, Mughetto, Oud, Ylang Ylang and Tuberosa. The Ylang Ylang and Tuberosa are strong, persistent, sweet and somehow overwhelming, in a good way. I also feel a bit of soapiness in it, and I love it. This one could easily be a signature fragrance, as it is complex and special. It is a mature smell, but not old or outdated. Great for both women and men and for everyday wear.
Too – the last one from this house, but my favourite from all of them. It is sweet, a bit manly, creamy and velvety. You can feel how it invades the senses, how it enters the body and them tries to get out thorough every inch of the skin. It is like a light forming inside the body, that needs to get out and shine. It is like inspiring the whole summer. Patchouli, Mirto, Cedar Atlas, Amber and vanilla meet the mysterious note of the saso. I couldn’t find “saso” meaning and this intrigues me much. In the Romanian translation, it says that saso is “season”, but this is not accurate. Besides the vintage Saso fragrance from Shiseido, I was not able to find any other reference of this word. That doesn’t make the fragrance less appealing or loveable. I definitely want it in my collection!
I know this is a very long article, but this house it is worth your attention and if you get the chance, try the fragrances. I’m sure that you will find at least one fragrance that suits your taste and attracts your attention.